Method and apparatus for making collars



y 6, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,639,841

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 11 Sheets-Sheet l 1N VEN TOR. 5010/4/77 z/saaw/rz May 26, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 11 Sheets-Sheet 2 Z r 5 WWW WM J I W Y 5 2 \w n W 6, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,639,841

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 11 Shaets-Sheet 3 May 26, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS 11 sheetssheet 4 Filed March 5. 1949 I INVENTOR. F wmw/v Z/QwW/TZ y 25, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,639,841

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 11 Sheets-Sheet 5 M y 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,6

METHOD APPARATUSFOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 I1 Sheets-Sheet 6 J4 INVENTOR.

' 50v AW/N' 50m Z F :l.l:1.l E. J L/ May 26, 1953 a. LlEBOWlTZ METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS 11 Sheets-Sheet 7 Filed March 5, 1949 INVENTOR. flay/4M Z/[BOW/TZ 6, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,639,841

ms'mon AND Awmwus FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 I 11 Sheets-Sheet s (47 TOA /VEVS May 26, 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS l1 Sheets-Sheet 9 Filed March 5, 1949 May 1953 B. LIEBOWITZ 2,639,841

METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Filed March 5, 1949 11 Sheets-Sheet l0 f24 /ZJE INVENTOR. fiz/wa/vm z/zlsow/rz A y Y/( y May 26, 1953 B. LIEB'OWITZ METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS 11 Sheets-Sheet 11 Filed March 5, 1949 IN VEN TOR.

E y v K 7 flTTG/PA/EYS Patented May 26, 1953 METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLARS Benjamin Liebowitz, Lewisboro, N. Y., assignor to Trubenizing Process Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation. of New York Application March 5, 1949, Serial N o. 7 9,758 In Great Britain January 16, 1947 54 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of articles of apparel, particularly collars and has for its general object to provide an p ve method and apparatus for effecting such manufacture. For convenience and brevity the des'cription herein will be confined to collars.

This application is a continuation-in-part of my copending applications, all now abandoned, Serial No. 790,042, filed December 6, 1947, for Apparatus and Method for Collar Creasing; Serial No. 30,814, filed June 3, 1948, for Method and Apparatus for the Manufacture of Collars; and Serial No. 36,974, filed July 3, 1948, for One-Piece Collars and Method and Apparatus for Makin Same.

In the generally accepted method of manufacturing conventional collars the foldover or collartop portion, as it is usually called, is made up, and the standup or collarband portion, as it is usually called, is then applied by stitching its constituting plies to the finished collartop, usually in two or more steps. v

The collartop and the collarband usually each consist of three plies of fabric. Thus, at the seam where the collartop is joined to the collarband there are nine plies of fabric, i. e., the three single pliesof the collartop and the three plies of the collarband doubled over to hide their raw edges.

This bulky seam is often uncomfortable; moveover, it requires high tensions in stitching and therefore tends to shrink a great deal when the finished collar is laundered. Even more serious is the variability of shrinkage with variations in methods of washing. For example, there is generally a difference in shrinkage ofv or V2 inch as between hand laundering and commercial laundering. Attempts have therefore been made to eliminate this bulky seam by cutting the fabric plies constituting the collar to the shape of the whole collar instead of cutting the collar top and collarband portions separately. Collars cut in this fashion are called one-piece collars. EX- cept for so-called sport collars, where highprec'ision is not demanded, these previous attempts have had little success because manufacturing tolerances have been too large to allow adequate precision in the finished article. These difficulties are also encountered in the manufacture of collars of the two-piece type, although the twopiece structure allows some correction by trimming before banding.

In the manufacture of collars by the usual methods, there is a sequence of operations each involving a substantial "tolerance. For example, in cutting, it is practically impossible to hold dimensions closer than plus or minus 5"; likewise in registering; likewise in the first stitching oper;

whose lengths as sewn vary less than plus or.

minus One of the primary objects of th invention is the elimination or minimization of these variations and it may be stated at once that I canactually produce collars whose variations come well within plus or minus The methodof the present invention, although useful in the manufacture of the collartop portions of two-piece collars, is particularly suited to the manufacture of one-piece collars and is, therefore, hereinafter described mainly in its relation to one-piece collars.

These articles, i. e., the one-piece three-ply collars and the tops of ordinary two-piece three-ply collars are normally made by a method called run and turn, which consists of superimposing the three plies with the face ply in the middle,

running, i. e., stitching around three sides of the outline required of the finished garment and turning the assembly inside out thus bri g the face ply to the outside and the interlining ply inside. During turning the plies hinge approximately around the running stitch.

For clarity and convenience the fabric layers of the collar structure are referred to herein as the face ply, the lining ply and the back ply respectively.

7 It is an object of this invention to provide novel method. and apparatus whereby the difficulties of the character above mentioned which heretofore have been encountered in the manufacture of collars or the like can successfully be overcome. Oneof theprime objectives of this invention is to provide method and apparatus whereby collars or the like can readily be manufactured in accurate conformity to predetermined dimensions and contours. It is a further principal objective of this invention to provide method and apparatus whereby collars or the like can readily be manufactured with the foldline thereof accurately determinedby foldline-forming means with re spect to predetermined finished contours.

'A characteristic feature of the invention conwhole of a one-piece collar, this step consisting,

of impressing the whole or most of the outline required for the finished collar into at least one of the collar plies (ordinarily the interlining) but preferably into two or all three of the assembled plies, so that when the collar is turned inside out, the plies will hinge accurately on the impression thus made even .when the stitching does not conform precisely with this impression. This impression may be made either before or after running.

Thus, in its broadest aspect the invention consists of a method of making a collar or collartop wherein the plies are assembled and united and turned inside out in accordance with l zncwn; run and turn practice, characterized in that a. crease, defining the outline of the collar or co]: lartop, or an essential part thereof, is impressed. in at least one of the plies of the assembly along and adjacent the margin or peripheral edge of the collartop portion thereof before turn ng.

The impression should be such as to facilitate b othrunning and turning, i. e., it should leave a yisiblemark and predispose. 'or flatten or weaken'the ya ns r fibers so. as to facilitate and insure turning around the line of impression, rather than around the line of stitch ng. To achieve this result novel creasing means is employed using a crease-forming die which has. a. relativel sharp crease-forming edge shaped to the contour desired for the collar and. which has.

associated therewith means adapted topress the ifcase forming edge into, the superposedv collar backed by a. resilie t padd n s'te s o particular imr itance in the. makingof one-piece collars of the fused type where, the provision of a properly located. and perm nen di din ne. betwee i a top and cgllarband (the socalledfifoldline of the collar) .r mary importan e. a d, has p v d n th past to be one ofv the main difficulties in the pro duction of one-piece collars.

The, present invention also comprises means whereby'thisfoldline. is determined together with besfpitm pg. of. the impression of the c lla or 1: laptop outline, eithersi-multaneously or. in succes,. sign, in such a manner as to insure precise locaticnjo'f the foldlinejrelative to'the impresscd oute line,- This is on of. the fundamental aspects of the invention and is applicable to soft collars as. well as the fused type. It is by means of this. procedure that this invention transcends the.

limitsimposed' by the manufacturing tolerances. which have hitherto affected collar production,

especially one-piece collar production, adverselx.

There are two general methods for defining, the'fold'l ine. One, which is applicable to fused collars only, comprises the prevention effusion between the backply and lining along an elon; gatednarrow stripwhich thereby kept much softer than the other parts of the collar and; hence defines a foldline along which the collar top' automatically foldsafter eachlaundering,

The: other method comprises application of extra stiffening at-least to the bandalong a zone, which mat be fairly wide or even include the entire band; adjacent to the foldover zone soas to createa line of-more or less sudden changeor dis; contir' u'ity in stiffness which-serves as a pcrma ne'nt-guide for-folding down thecollartop. This last method is also applicable to softcollars, Thereare other types of foldline-forming means which have some properties of both, the above wee-as r. e m-2 .8 ni he ese i neie e fllgd; collar wherein resist material. is uscdgto, f" ntfu ica alon he fqldline. nd. the. c911 t .e Inn ss. stifiensd mme ately. ash s cent the foldline. The form of apparatus to be used according to this invention is determined, at least to some extent, by the kind of foldlineforming means used.

It is indicated above that the crease may be formed in the lining ply alone, but it preferable to form the crease sinmltaneousl y in the lining ply and the face ply superimposed on it or in all three plies. Convenient handling, however, demands that when two or more plies are simultaneously creased, they be attached to one another, cither permanently or temporarily, either before. the creasing operation or by the creasing operation itself, otherwise when subsequent op- Erations are performed, there is a good chance for the, plies to shift relative to one another. One way of attaching the plies together is to perform the running operation or part of the running operation. before the creasing operation. This is perhaps the most practicable method and will be discussed later. Another way is to perform the running. operationafter the creasing opera.- tion and'either to temporarily unitethe plies to be creased before the creasing operation, e. g., by basting or staples, or cause them. to become; lightly and/or temporarily attached to each other by the creasing operation itself, as will be described.

In th case of soft. collars, the lining used generally contain a substantial amount ofstarch.

and. other fillings,,.such that by the; application. of moisture to the region to be creased, the lining ply may become sufficiently adhered to the. face. ply by the creasing operation to. prevent shifting during subsequent operations. In the. case of fused collars, a fewdrops of. solvent. or plasticizcr, may be, applied at spots spaced along; the creasing edge so that when the creasing op eration is performed with the aid of heatand pressure, the. lining ply and the. face ply: Will. adhere. to. each other at these. spots. sufficiently for the purposes intended. The cross-sectional shape of the. creasing blade of the die; may be such as to facilitate this fusion, e.. g.,, by p oviding. a land.

pleted' and fused? in. the. welleknown manner res gardless of the temporary uniting oftheplies.

Thi invention willv be moreclearly understood by reference. to the accompanying. diagrammatic. drawingsin which,

DQWS in plan a, collar assembly con;- sisting of three registered. cut..plies, two. ofthe plies being partially folded back;

Fig. 2 is a, vertical section of one form ofa. creasing die-and resist applicaton, the. creasing edge being shown in position against theregis:

teredcutplies of the collar assembly disposedin gauged location on a resilient backing;

v Fig. 3' is a diagrammatic end elevation of a. 1 crease-forming machine comprising the, creasing mined by the crease-forming;v die. and applicator hown-in Figs. za dfi.

The strong, permanent adhesionis subsequently achieved when the collar, is. com-.-

ing die;

Fig. 8 is a partial view similar to Fig. 6 but showing a modified applicator adapted for the application of stiffening material to the collarband as a foldline-forming means;

Fig. 9 is similar to Fig. 7 but shows stiffening materialapplied to the collarband in position determined by the applicator shown in Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a modified creasing die and applicator, the crease-forming edge of the creasing 'die being upwardly directed and having a registered collar assembly placed thereon;

Fig. 11 is a cross-section on the line Il--l,l of Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary cross-section on the line l2l2 of Fig. 10;

Fig. 13 is the same as Fig. 12 with the parts in different relative positions;

Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic end elevation of a modified crease-forming machine comprising the creasing die and applicator shown in Figs. 10

Fig. 15 is a schematic plan view of a modification wherein a partially run assembly is gauged by the running stitch with reference to the creas- Fig. 16. is a schematic shown in Fig. 15;

Fig. 1'7 is a plan view ofmechanism generally similar to that shown in Fig. 15, but showing a modification and showing more detail as to mounting the parts with reference to the lower pressure plate of the press shown in Fig. 14;

Fig. 18 is an end view of the parts shown in Fig. 17;

Fig. 19 is a plan view of a modified creasing die and applicator in the form of a template which is shown disposed on a registered collar assembly resting on rubber padding, the template containing a stencil aperture adapted for application of resist material to the assembly;

Fig. 20 is a cross-section taken on the line 2020 of Fig. 19;

Fig. 21 is an end elevation showing parts of a conventional collar press provided with rubber padding on the lower buck, the collar plies and template shown in Figs. 19 and 20 being in place and being acted upon by the upper head of the press;

Fig. 22 is a fragmentary cross-section showing the template of- Figs. 19 to 21 forming a crease;

Fig. 23 is similar to Fig. 22 showing a modification of the template which may be used to improve the crease;

Fig. 24 is similar to Fig. 19 except that the stencil aperture in the template is adapted for application of stiffening material to the collarband;

. Fig. 25-is a cross-section taken on the line 2525 of Fig. 24;

Fig. 26 is a cross-section of a closure member adapted for use with the template shown in Figs. 24 and 25;

Fig. 27 is a side elevation partly in section of an alternative mechanism for making a marginal crease in a registered collar assembly and for determining the deposition of stiffening material along the band portion of the assembly for defining the foldline;

Fig. 28 is a detail view on an enlarged scale of the crease-forming die shown in Fig. 27 viewed from below;

Fig. 29 is a side elevation on an enlarged scale of the crease-forming die taken on the line 29-29 of Fig. 28 when in position for forming a marginal crease in a registered collarassembly end view of the parts resting ,on the-support and showing. the pressing foot associated with the crease-forming die for subjecting the stiffenin material applied to the registered collar assembly to heat and pressure;

Fig. 30 is a detail view from below and on an enlarged scaleof the applicator member of the apparatus shown in Fig. 27;

Fig. 31 is an end sectional elevation of the applicator member taken on the line 3l3l of Fig. 30;

Fig. 32 is aside elevation detail view of. a modified type of applicator adapted for use with a mechanism of the type shown in Fig. 27; and

Fig. 33 is similar to Fig. 9 showing modified foldline-forming means.

In Fig. 1 there are shown three layers of fabric cut to form a one-piece collar and intended to be creasedv along the dot-and-dash line C. The lining ply is indicated by 4|, the face ply by 42, and the back ply by 43. The lining ply may be cut narrower than the other twoplies asindicated. In Fig. 2 these plies 4|, 42. and 43 are shown resting on a resilient pad 44 (e. g. rubber). A gauge plate 45 having an opening corresponding to the out plies of the collar (see also Fig. 6) also rests on the padding so that the cut plies may be placed in the machine accurately located with respect to the restof the mechanism by means of said gauge plate 45. A creasing die 45 is shown positioned so as to present creasing edges 46a to the fabric plies. The die may be made by fastening metal strips to a plate 46b as by means of screws 460, said plate 46b being cut to conform with the required contour of the collar as shown in Fig. 6. By means of screws 41 the i die is fastened to a plate 48 by means 'of which the die 46 is fastened as shown in Fig. 2.

the die is brought into contact with the work. Connected to the die plate 46b is a resist plate 49 held to the die plate 46b by means of studs 5|]. This resist plate is limited in it movement relative to the plate 46b by the heads of the studs 50 and is urged toward the collar plies by springs 51. When the die 46 is brought into contact with the collar plies, the lower face of the resist plate 49 presses against the uppermost of said plies which in this case is the lining ply 4|. The resist plate contains an elongated slot 49a which acts as a stencil aperture through which resist may be applied to the lining ply so that, after the final turning, sewing and fusing operations are completed, adhesion between the back ply and the lining will be prevented along the narrow zone determined by the slot 49a.

The parts illustrated in Fig. 2 may be operated by associating them with a press shown in Figs.

3, 4 and 5. The press comprises a lower buck 52 on which rests the resilient padding 44. Resting on this resilient padding is the gauge plate 45 by means of which the collar parts are located on the press, said gauge plate being held in position by any convenient means as shown. An upper buck 53 which is heated, as by means of the steam inlet 53a, is carried by a lever arm 54 pivotally supported at 55. By appropriate means, e. g., power means not shown, the lever 54 is movable so that the heated head 53 may be moved toward the work. Also pivotally hinged at 55 is an arm 56 which carries the plate 48 to which y means of the spring 51 the plate 48 is held either in an upward position in contactwith the upper buck 53 or in the lower position shown in Figs. 4 and 5.

The sequence of operations is as follows:

When the press is in the open position shown assay-sci 7. in 'Fig; 3*:thecollar assemblyi's laid onthe resflieflt pad 4W in aposition-determined by' the gauge plate 15-. After the "collar assembly is in position, themovable plate as is lowered into the position shown in. Fig; 4, thereby bringing the lower' face oi the 'resist' plate d ll into-contactwith the lining ply. Resist .isithenappli'edrto the ply through the slot #912,. the-movable plate 48 and the die plate 461) "being provided. with openings as shown in Fig. 2 for this purpose-.. After the resist is applied the heated head is lowered onto the work. as shown in: Fig; fir there'by' applying", heat and pressureto the creasing die forcing the creasingedges dficrinto the work, thereby creating the desired crease; It will he noted that in this adaptation, ithewli riing'ply lis uppermost.

:In :Fig. 7: the: collar assembly :is .showncatter' having been subiected to the operations described. in, the preceding paragraph. By virtue i035 the action :of the creasing edge of the creasing die on:

the collar assembly theicrease 358 isiormed in'iallz three-plies of thesassembl'y along andtazdiacent' thezmargin of the ioldover :portion of the collar and at'the end of. thecollarband'. and is termed the: face ply 42 and in the back ply :43 along: and adjacent the bottom of. the collar-band. The resist :59: is applied; to the lining ply 4i along a. narrow zone at the iold linexbetwecnthe ioldover' andaband portions of the collar.. which zonewis in.

accurately spaced relationship to the crease:.-58.. Before. performing theaopenations above described theassembled collar plies may if desiredibertemporarily held inregistrationas by bastingstitohes fill-iat eachendof the: assembly. .After thewoperations. above described, the assembly can berunin the usual way along thefoldoverportionand' at; the ends of the col-larband jiust zoutsideithe crease 59, the running stitchbeing. indicated: at

64-- .Af-ter this firststitching operatiomtrimming.

operations may be performedrat thepointsxof'the cellar. as W611 .as at the crotch to removeuunewanted fabric in these regions, and. thenthe collar is turned inside. out the usual-way; :after' which the final stitching may be made running paral-leito the edgeof the collar. When thecollar .pliesrare thusturnedinsideout, thus=hringingthe lining zply between. the top ply andtheface ply, the plies will hinge: with ,fieiiurewa'long the crease; and the outlines of the foldoverportiom'. oi the collar will. have been accurately :predeter mined by the: location of the-crease. W'hileth'e bottom. ply will have been creased in the Wrong direction, experience.- has shown: thatcth'e crease in then-other two plies dominates and thatchebottom ply .folds almost automatically in; the proper-manner when thezcollar-is turned More:- over after the collar plies have been "turned "the resist-.59 will beaocurat'ly located predetermined. spaced relationship with respect to the peripheral contours of the collar as determined by the crease, with. the result that when the turned collar is. fused by activation ofiadhesive carried. by the lining ly, the resist-will preventfusion of the lining. ply with .the backv .pl-y along the fol'dline and the collar will fold alon the foldline thus defined .in accurate relation to the predetermined collar contours.

Iii-Fig: 8 the creasing die and other'partsareas. hereinabove described in connection with Figs. 1 to- 6'. The only difierence is'that i'n' thi'smodifi'cationthe plate-ts'is made somewhat wider-so as to accommodate the wider stencil aperture 4% shown in Fig. 8 through which stiffening material may beiappli'edtoiathe collarban'd witlt'one marg-inthereofl.accurately located immediately-along position. by ,means of strips: 59;.

the collar fo'ldlihe; In using the modification shown in- Fig. -8, the-operations here'inaboveisle scribed connectionwith- Figs. 1 to 61 are the same except that instead ofapplying' resist mat'eri'al to-theli nihg'ply through the-aperature 19a shown Fig. 6 a stiffening material is applied. through the s'tcncil aperture 4'92; of Fig. 8.

result oi the creasing of the collar plies and the application:ofstiitening material to the lining is shown in Fig. 9: which: :is identical with Fig. '7, except that insteadot :theresist -being app'liedi along the collar fifl'dll-HEQSFSDOWBL ire-Fig. 7, the stiffening material 62 is shown appliectto the lhrihgplyz al'ongithe;icollambanidwith one margin thereof immediately adjacent-the -fio-ldline isindicatedzbyzthe dotaand-das-hsline atF; When the collar is turned the presence of. the. stiffening materialwillaiiord discontinuity 'ofistifl ness along the foldlineF which isthereby accurately deter mined: in relation. to the finished, contours of the collar as predetermined by the crease 58. practice of the invention employing stiffening material-accurately located along theioollarband: may be. in connection with the manufacture either of fused collars or collars of the unfused. type, f or :in neither .casethere-will,be discontinuity of stifiness accurately located at the'tcolleaffoldline where the margin of the sti-iiening material occurs.

Referring to Figs. 1-0 :to .13 a. modified. die arrangement is shownwhich is adapted to' crease the collar assembly and toriloca'te the .f'oidline by the application of stiffening-.material to the hand in a region adjacent the foldine. In this modification the creasing edge of: the creasing die "is upwardly directed and the applicator is adapted. toapply thesti-fiening. material tothe' underside of the collar assembly.- The-creasing. die: em.- ployed maybe termed-in any suitable wayas by fastening :StLUiMHQI metal Soto thedie plate fit byscrews E5. .Intheregion where the collarband is to be stifiened there is a strip ofsmetal 66 which along. one margin thereof has the shape of. the desired fioldline and which may be: held -.to' the die plate by screws :61. as indicated. The top of this .strip. iii-lies about 1 3'" below the creasing edges 63a.. A. .pair of. flexible: members. which may be tubular as indicated, is shown at its. These tubular members may be made of an appropriate uality of rubber and are held The flexible members. .68 form a groove into which a stripof material may be placed which will become; temporarily .or permanently fastened to the linillg. ply in the creasing operation. Surrounding the die visthe gauge plate 1 .5). which may-be :fiexibly fastened to the die by means of fiat springs 11., as. indicated in Figs=..19, 12 .and 13. Also "as shown in Fig. 12, the gauge plate 1:0 issupported so that its upper .surfaoeeliesabove the creasing edges Hoof thedie. Vl/ henpressureisappliedso as-to force the creasing edges into the work. the gauge plate it .must be :able: .toaretract aswshown in 13. The spring mounting at H 'rpermitsthis retraction.

One formiof pressadapted ior using the: die shown .i'nFi gs- 1.0- to: L3. is shown-diagrammatically in Fig. 14. It comprises abasetmember :12- anda hinged-...member t3 pivoted-at M andiheld inanormallyup position-by spring 1551 A. toggle mechanism is shown comprising a link 'fli h inged to the :baseamcmbert :1 Zcati 7:1 and a link -7 8 hing-ed towthe. pivotedcarrni id at 21s and hinged to the 71165 at 80". An armtl which may be made integral withxth'e lmk it enables the pivoted arm with the creasing die.

. support the plies.

' 13 to be raised and lowered as required for the operation. A pressure plate 82 is carried floatingly by the pivoted member 13 by means of screws 82b and springs 82c. Pressure is adjustably applied by means of the centrally located screw 82a. The pressure plate 82 carries the rubber padding 83. The base member 12 carries a pressure plate 84 which is provided with electrical heating elements 85. Heat insulating means may be employed as shown at 86 to restrict the flow of heat from the pressure plate 84 to the base member 12. The creasing die 63 with its -associated tubular members 68, etc. and associated gauge plate is placed on the pressure plate 84 in any desired position. It is not necessary to locate the die accurately with respect to other machine parts in this embodiment, because the gauge plate 10 is directly associated In this embodiment the collar assembly is placed in the gauge 10 with the lining ply 4| down, i. e., next to the creasing edges.

In the embodiment shown in Figs. 10 to 14, the foldline is formed by stiffening the region of the collarband adjacent to it. This may be accomplished in a variety of ways. A preferred form is one in which a strip of fusing lining is used, for example, a strip of lining which contains cellulose derivative yarns; such strips may be cut on the bias and of suitable width to be placed in the 1 slot formed by the tubular members 68. Preferably they are plasticized and allowed to dry before they are inserted into the slot, using, for example, mixtures of dimethyl phthalate and triphenyl phosphate in carbon tetrachloride. When 'the heated die is brought down so as to impress the crease into the work, heat and pressure are also applied to this added strip so as to unite the same to the lining. The fusion need be only temporary if, as in the case of fused collars, a subsequent fusing operation will be performed so as to permanently unite all the plies. Instead of using a single layer of fabric to stiffen the band, I may use a double layer, formed, for example, by

folding over bias strips of double width. Or I may employ a tape containing cellulose derivative yarns or a strip or tape of ordinaryfabric coated with an adhesive.

In using the embodiment disclosed in Figs. 10

to 14, the first operation is to place a strip of material of appropriate length and width in the slot formed by the flexible members 6868, said strip preferably containing latently adhesive ma,-

' terial and plasticized, as mentioned. The next f'step is to register the top ply and the lining and place them in the opening of the gauge plate 10 so that they rest on the creasing edges 63a and on the flexible members 88 and on such additional resilient supports as may be needed to A few drops of acetone may then be applied close to the edge of the plies at various points along the collar; the head 82 is then brought down and pressure applied by means of the toggle mechanism 1611, thereby forcing the creasing edges 63a into the plies backed by the resilient padding 83 and simultaneously pressing on the inserted strip. In a few seconds the crease is formed, the stiffening strip becomes adhered to the lining ply in proper shape and position to determine the location of the foldline, and the face ply and lining become lightlyadhered at the spots where the acetone was applied. The press may then be opened and the work removed and the next collar assembly processed. After this creasing operation, the

creased lining and face ply are superimposed on the uncreased bottom ply and the three are stitched together with the crease serving as the guide. It is to be emphasized, however, that it is desirable not to stitch right in the crease but a little bit outside the crease distant from it by 1 mm. or so. This insures that in the subsequent turning the creased parts will hinge on the crease rather than on the stitch; furthermore, by keeping the stitch a little bit away from the crease the formation of good collar points is facilitated.

In the methods described in connection with Figs. 2 to 14 inclusive the running is to be performed after the creasing operation. However, in most plants the operatives are accustomed to stitch according to a gauge and not according to a crease or mark; hence the methods hitherto described will often involve a substantial amount of retraining. To eliminate this retraining, or most of it, a modified method may be employed,

which is illustrated schematically in Figs. 15 and 16. In this modification, the collar is run but preferably one end of the collar assembly is left unseamed. Referring to Figs. 15 and 16, the collar plies are shown at 4|, 42 and 43 as heretofore, the collar plies resting on the creasing edge- 81a of the creasing die 81. The running seam is shown at 88. It is to be noted that in this embodiment the seam 88 is not made along the right-hand edge of the collar assembly, as seen in Fig. 15. For clarity the separation ofthe runningseam 88 from the creasing'edges 81a is exaggerated in Figs. 15 and 16. In this embodiment a template 89 is employed which with minor modifications conforms to the shape of the finished collar and which is hinged at 90 with respect to the rod 9|. The rod 9| is slidably mounted in any suitable way for horizontal movement'in the direction indicated by the arrow relative to the lower pressure plate of a press which carries the creasing die 81, as, for example, the pressure plate 84 of the press shown in Fig. 14. Thus, the slide mechanism described below in connection with Figs. 17 and 18 may be employed as by supporting the rod 9| by a clamp I51 which is bolted to the slide plate I04 shown in Figs. 1'1 and 18 by the bolts I06.

In Figs. 15 and 16 the template 89 is shownin four different positions, via, 89, 89a, 89b and 890.

In position 891) the template stands vertically;

this is the loading position. In this position the seamed plies are slipped over the template,

' an operation which is readily performed since one positioning of the collar in the accurate location provided by the template as swung into position 89, pins 92 may be provided which are rigidly held by the creasing die 81 and on which the collar becomes impaled when the template is swung from position 890 into position 89. The template 89 has notches 93 therein to accommodate the pins 92. template is withdrawn while still horizontal by sliding into position 891;. It. may then be rotated back into the loading position 8%. The

sequence of operations is as follows: Template in After this operation the .iereasing edge .8111, the collar assembly is Epressed against the: creasing edge 51a as above described, e,. .;g. :by the pressure ahead 82of Fig. 14

ndowndnto operational posit-ion. 'The crease thus stormed is parallel to and slightly inside of the morning stitches. The collar is then removed xirom :the machine. The end which has been left open may then be seamed up with the release as a guide. In view of the small "amount of.seam- Iingzneqnined here -'th-is last .step i-n-velues-no :suloz-stantial amount of retraining aof operatives. sn-lternatiyely indeed both ends may .be left :Wilrfile ior polarity in "the :showing in =15 and :16 thezcreasing die 8:1 been shown with- :out applicator associated therewith, it :is papparent that an-applieatorsuch as that-shown in Rigs. to id or in Figs. l? and l8;ma y :be .employedso that when the creasing operation is performed, tst-iffiening material will ,be applied simultaneously-to the underside of thecollar as- "sembly While the assembly is :in the position on the creasing die that ,"is determined, as aforesaid, :by gauging wih reference to the running stitch. g

The extent to which the collar may :be before performing thezcreasingand foldlineform- 1mgoperatior-ihere described may be yarledgf-rom eompleterunning l-wh-ich requires collapsible dies fior withdrawal of the template) down. A oriorari, the most desirable way from the standpoint of accuracy is to run only (one end of the collar-atop and the long edge of same, leaving union the otheraend of the collar-top and =-both band ends. Inthis way, all the previous errors cutting, registering :and stitching are, ,so to speak, lumped at the un-run end of -the collar top and are there corrected by the crease. Experienoe has iconinrmed this; thus, it has been :fomrdthat under good operating @condi-tionswariations greater than plus or minus 1% occur @at the unnun end even at this early stage when :the oollar :is placed over the template; these variations are eliminated practically completely by the crease :zformed at the unr-un end. Similar :nemarksapply to the :band ends, both-of which are preferably left unrun before creasing. and. seamed afterward according to the. crease Even when only one :end and the long edge .of the --co1-1arat0p are run before creasing, there is an appreciable warlation between .the shape of the stitch-line and the shape-of the crease. Unless this variation is excessive, it does no harm, because it.--is-the crease andnotthestitch (which mould-always lie-outside the crease) thatldeter- It wilhbenotedin Fig. 15 that the edge 89a: of

the template 189- is shown separated from the sunning seam $8. This showing is purely for clarity. Inpractice, the edge mzczof theitemplate '88 will, 'in general, be very close to the running stitch BB when the -.,collar is pulled over the template, except for accidental differences mentioned iabo-ve between stitchsshape rand crease- .shape.

In Figs. lll and :18 mechanisms are shownin greater detail which rareo-f the same general type described above in connection with F-igs. .15 and 1-6 except for various modifications. Operation- .a-lly speakin the principal change l-ies .in'the fact that inuFigs. l7 'and.,-18 the template always remains horizontal, i. e., is loaded in the horizontal position. The mechanisms shown 17 and 18 are adapted fordnclusion in-anytype of press comprising upper and lower pressing 'members, but will :be :descri-bedrfor purposes of illustration in relation .to the :press shown in Figs. .17 and 18 the pressure plate M including "the heating elements v185 and the insulation .85) aresubstantially the sameasiin Fig. 14. These vpartseare carried by the support plate 94 which in turn is secured to the frame members J2 the angle bars llafiand screws 96. The pressure platelldand the insulation may be maintained .inposition relatively to the support plate .34 in any suitable way as byscrews 91a, preterably with spacer bars -91 between the support ,plate .94 and the insulation .86. The creasing die consists of the ,plate 98 whose contours lcorrespond to the desired peripheral contours of the. finished collar and to which the upstanding .metal strip is secured as .by screws (not .shown but which may be the-same as screws -.65 shown in Fig, r10) the metal strip presenting the crease-dorming "edge'SBa. Fitting within corresponding opposed holes in ,the pressure plate .andin the creasing die plate -98 :thereare dowel ,pins :98 which permit ready :removahof the creasing die from :the pressure plate 84 .but which .112: :the positionof the creasing die when it .is placed on the pressure plate 4. 4

In Figs. 17 and 1-8 a-preierred rtype-ofiapplicator is shown adapted for the application of a strip of stifiening fabric to the underside of {a collar assembly resting on the creasing edge r9811 -at the same time that the assembly is pressed against the creasingiedge to form acrease therein. This applicator consistsof the bar =Ill0 ,secured to the creasing :die .98 as by screwsvlfll. Theiuppersuriaceof the .bar lnflpresents a central land portion I Ulla which is borderedgon each side by, channels 4110b, the channels 1410b being recessed below the le elof .theland 4110a but being brought upvon theouter edgesuthereof to provide :acertain amount.ofoverhangas shown. .Innse a strip. oi tabric isslipped endwise underneath the overhang of the-enamels and-is thereby held by the bar illinsucha *wayas to prenrent accidental displacement from its desired accurate location. :When the collar assembly is subjected to pressure :to form :the crease, the assembly is pressed against the portion "of the strip of fabric overlying "the land 4000, to effect the desired a-dhesion in the manner that has already "been described herein and when'the assembly is removed from the creasing 'die after-the creasing operation the strip of stiffening fabric will be carried therewith. .As before, thebar I00 is located so thatone margin of the .stripof stiffening material as applied to the .collarband will be accurately positioned at or adjacent the ioldline, for .ex- 'a-r-r-lple, .in the manner illustrated in Fig.9.

Secured to the --underside of the support, plate @531 2.5.1175" screws 10% there isa pair'of snaoednails I02 presenting on the inner sides thereof opposed slide channels I03 in which the slide plate I04 is slidably mounted. The bar I05 is securely bolted to the end of slide bar I04 by the bolts I05, the spacer I01 being disposed therebetween to give the bar I05 the desired elevation. The rear edge of the template I08 has notches I09 therein which accommodate the screws I 4| between the bars I42 and I43. The template is thus readily removable but is held firmly in place upon tightening the screws MI to clamp the edge of the template between the bars I42 and I43.

, The assembly of the template H33 and bars I42 and I43 is maintained in position by the guide rods I44 which are rigidly secured to the bar H33 and which slidably fit within holes I65 in the bar I05 and within guide bushings I 46 secured to the underside of the bar I05. The template I08 and its associated parts are maintained in normal elevated position 'by the springs I41 and theupward movement of therods Hi l is limited by snap rings I48 secured to their lower ends.

It is seen from the foregoing that the template I08 is slidable between one position over the creasing die and another position clear ofthe creasing die and toward'the operator. The movementof the template toward the operator can be limited in any suitable way as by providing a pin I49 which is adapted tostrike against the cross tie I50 secured to the rails I02. The precise position where this movement is limited can be adjusted as by providing a plurality of holes I5I in the slide plate I04 in which the pin I50 can be selectively placed. When the template I08 is moved to position over the creasing die 90, its movement is limited by the pins I52 on the underside of the template I 08 striking the stops I53 which are secured to the creasing die itself, In thisway, accuracy of location of template I08 relative to creasing die is determined by the pin and stop arrangement I52-!53 rather than by built-in accuracy of the machine.

The operations using-the mechanisms shown in Figs. 18 and 19 will now be described. The

template is first moved toward the operator, i. e., to the position shown in Figs. 17 and 18. A collar assembly which has been partly run as indicated above in ccnnectio'n with Figs. 15 and 16 is fitted over the'template I08 with the template between the plies until the running stitch is snugly against theperipheral contours of the template. The template with the collar assembly fitted thereon is then moved over the creasing die until the pins I52 contact the stops I53. This movement is permitted because the template in its normally elevated position clears the creasing die. The operator then depresses, the template with the collar assembly thereon against the action of the springs I i"! to the level indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 18 whereupon the collar assembly becomes impaled on the upstanding pins I54 which-are fixed to the creasing die in position corresponding to the notches I55 in the temformed therein and will have the stiffening ma terial applied to the band portion thereof as above described. I I

An alternative means for carrying out the objective of this invention is described below'in connection with Figs 19 to 22. This means .has the advantage of requiring a minimum of special mechanism, namely, a template, which may be used in conjunction with an ordinary hot press. The crease is formed by the marginal contours of the template which has been cut to correspond with the desired finished contours of a given collar, and the material which determines the location of the foldline is deposited on the registered collar assembly through an appropriate aperture in the template. This alternative means will first be described as adapted for the application of resist material to the adhesive-carrying lining of a collar assembly adapted for making a one-piece collarof the fused type.

In Figs. 19 to 22, H0 is a registered collar assembly consisting of the lining ply I Illa, the face ply I lb, and the back ply I I00. In this instance all of the plies are cut to substantially the same peripheral contours. II I is a rubber padding on which the assembly rests. H2 is a temp-late which is cut to the shape of the finished collar and which is superimposed on the assembly as shown. MM is a slot or aperture in the template I I2 Whose shape and position determine the location of the foldline, and I IZb is a groove surrounding the slot as indicated in order to reduce the thickness of the template in the region of the slot. After repeated use the template IIZwill become heated and for convenience in handling the template may be provided with a handle shown in dotted lines at I IE, but the handle is not necessary and may be omitted. In operation the operator can, of course, use a gloved hand if the template istoo hot-to be conveniently handled. Alternatively a magnet may be used to handle the template if the template is made of ordinary steel. Y

As aforesaid, the template may be used in con junction with an ordinary hot press such :as that shown in Fig. 21 wherein the rubber padding I I I lies on the lower buck I I3. The upper buck H4 is pivoted at H5, and conventional means (not shown) may be used whereby the upper buck can be raised and lowered between the positions shown in solid and dotted lines in Fig. 21. The bucks can be heated in any convenient way as by admission of steam through the lines H311 and I I la.

When using the template H2, the template is first registered in desired location with the peripheral contours of a collar assembly resting on the rubber backing III. The resist material can then be squeegeed through the slot H20.

.onto the lining which is the uppermost ply. The

upper buck is then brought down so as to apply heat and pressure to the template and thereby force the template into the registered plies of the collar assembly which in turn are forced into the rubber backing to thereby create the desired crease along all edges of the template adjacent the margin of'the assembly as shown in Fig. 22. This crease corresponds to the finished shape of the collar and after the foregoing operations have :been completed the: collar assembly is .hereinabove described in connection with Fig. 7.

In carrying out the operations above described in connection with Figs. 19 to 22 the heat of the press will accelerate the drying of the resist material so that no special drying operation is necessary. Because of the action of the hea-t'in drying the resist material, the resist material normally is applied before the crease is formed but sequence can, of course, be reversed. The-same istrue in connection with the use of apparatus of the types shown in Figs. 2, 3, i, 5,

5 and 3 which 'have been described hereinaboye :whether resist or 'stifi-ening material is applied and-is also true in connection with the use or the apparatus of Figs. 24 to 32 that are described below. The claims herein are to be interpretedin this light.

In Figs. 19 to 22, the marginal contours of the template, while plain, constitute the creaserorming edge thereof .and the crease is formed -.thereby due to the sharp flexure of the collar assembly along the edges of the template when the template and the underlying collar plies are pressed into the padding i l l, as shown in Fig. 22. The efiectiveness of the edges of the template in torn-tinge crease in the plies of the collar assem- .bly. may be increased by relievingthe underside of the template to form a protruding orease-form- .ing edge along the margin of the template .as indicated at I i201 in Fig. 23, so as to bite into the collar plies when the template and the under lying collar plies are pressed into the padding H l.

'Mechanism of the type described above in connection withFigs. 19 to 23 is also well adapted for use in accordance with this invention when the material deposited on the registered collar I tion and use of'the mechanism is described below in connection with Figs. 24, and 26.

Fig. 24 is the same as Fig. 19 as to the corresponding elements "which are indicated by --lil: reference characters, but instead of providing the template H2 with a narrow slot H211 as shown in Fig. 19, 'a wider slot HI within the groove H2 is provided. The margin 'or-edge H70 of the slot H! is located as before so as to'be immediately adjacent the i'oldline or the collar so that after'stifieningmaterial is applied'to the registered 'collar'assembly on which the template is superimposed as shown in Fig. 24 and after the template has been pressed into the assembly to "form a marginal crease thereon, the stiffening material which determines the foldline will be located with reference to the crease which determines the contours of the finished collar as de scribed above in connection with Fig. 9. The operation of the mechanisms shown in "Figs. 19 to 23 when using the template shown in Figs. 24 and 25 is essentially similar to that which already has been described in connection with Figs. 19 to 23.

The-stiffening material that is applied to the collar assembly in using the template shown in Figs. '24 and 25 maybe any of the kinds mentioned elsewhere herein, and it has been mentioned above that under certain circumstances when the stiffening material is in the form of an adhesive-bcarmg fabric it is desirable to subject the adhesive-bearing fabric to pressure and heat to cause it to adhere to the ply of the collar assembly to which it is applied. While this can be accomplished in any desired way, it can be conveniently accomplished during the crease-formin-g operation by using the closure H9 shown in Fig.26 which has the portion 1 Illa that fits within the groove 1 1.1. The closure is dimensioned so thatwhenthe underside of the flange Hfibrests on-t-he-bott-om of the groove H 5, the upper .face of the closure will be substantially flush With-the upper surface of the template --and the bottom face of the closure -:will be substantially flush with the bottom of the template. In such case alter placing the band of adhesive-bearing stiffening fabric in the slot it! of the template, the closure .may be placed intheslot and when the press is closed the adhesive-bearing band of stifiening fabric will be subjected to heat and pressure. Such an operation may be especially desirable when the collar is of the soft type (except for thestifi'ening hand), for a separate fusing step can thereby be avoided In employing the .templatemodification according to this invention as described above in connection with Figs. '19 130216, there are certain advantages in having the template .entirely free both from the standpoint of the simplicity of'the equipment requiredand because of the fact that no changes in mechanical registry are required when changing the templatejfrom one size or .style of collar to another. However, insteadof having the template entirely free, the template may be substituted .for the type .of creasing die .and stencil applicator shown in Figs. 2 to 6 and -8, i. e., with the stencil carried by the arm 56 of the pressshown in Figs. .3, 4 and 5 soas to legister with acollar-assemb'ly resting ,on the rubber backing 44 in the location determined by the gauge plate 45. Except for the simpler type of creasing die and stencil aperture afiorded by the template, the operation inproducing the crease and in applying the resist or stiffening material is essentially the sameas'hereinabove described inconnection with Figs. ,2 to 6 and '8.

In the types of mechanism .hereinabove described the creasing die and applicator arrangement is such that the applicator is presented within the crease-forming edge of the creasing die so that when the collar assembly is located for receiving the crease-forming'edge in desired registration therewith, the assembly is also lo- "cated in position for receiving the resist or'stifiening material in the location determined by .the applicator. In Figs. 27 to .31 an alternative mechanism is shown whereby the objectives of the invention may also be accomplished and wherein the creasing die and applicator are spaced from each other and the collar assembly is moved from one to the other .by mechanical motions which are .controlledby the design of the apparatus so that stifiening material applied to the collarband of the assembly or resist applied along the foldline .is "in accurately predetermined spaced rd'elationship to the crease formed by the creasing In Figs; 27 to 31-the :mec'hanism'shown is largely diagrammatic so "asto show the primary operating principles involved. A generally similar mechanism is shown in greater detail in my aforesaid application Ser. No. 790,042 and for structural refinements reference is made to the disclosure in this application.

In the "mechanism shown in Figs. 27 to 31 there are two gauges each or which may be identical with that shown in Fig. 6, these gauges being indicated at I2'0a, and I 201). These gauges are spaced with respect to the center line cc of the vertical shaft l2] which rotates on a hear-- ing I22 supported by the base I23. Atits upper end the shaft 12] carries a table [2d on which the gauges [20a and 12% are placed and located .by any suitable means (not shown), such as screws, pins, or the like. It will be understood that these gauges are accurately (with-inwarking tolerances) spaced symmetrically =with-respect -t0 the center line -0. An arm, or preferably a pair of parallel arms I25 (hereinafter referred to as the arm I25), is carried by the base I23 by means of a pivot shown at I26, so that the arm may move to and away from the table I24. The arm I25 carries the creasing die I26 which is accurately positioned with respect to the gauge Ia. The arm I also carries the template or stencil I21 which is accurately positioned (within reasonable tolerances) with respect to the creasing die I26. The arm I25 can be raised and lowered by any convenient means (not shown) and when in lowered position the lowering means is adapted to impose pressure directed toward the upper surface of the table I24. The table I24 can be swung by manual rotation thereof into two positions of registration determined by the elements I28a. and I28b= which coact with the pin I29 that is pushed upwardly by the spring I30, the combination of these mechanisms actin as a detent to hold the plate I24 in the registered position shown, or in a position 180 from the position shown, i. e., 'withthe element I281), in contact with the pin I28 instead of the element I28a.

A sheet of rubber or other yieldable resilient material shown at I3Ia. and IBM) is placed in or under the gauges I2la and I 2%- respectively so that when the registered collar assembly is placed in either gauge it will rest on the padding provided by the rubber sheet. In this embodiment it will be noticed that the applicator I21 is in the form of a simple stencil-like plate having the slot or aperture I21a therein which is shown in detail in Figs. 30 and 31 and which is adapted to apply stifiening material to the collarband.

When the arm I25 is in its upward or retracted position, a registered collar assembly I28 is placed in a gauge, say gauge 1211b. In order to maintain the assembly in position relative to the gauge I261), two or more pins (not shown) may be used, but in practical operation it has been found that the use of such pins is unnecessary. The arm I 25 is then brought down so as to bring the template I21 into contact with the assembly. The stiffening material, which may be any of the kinds described above, is then deposited on the upper ply of the assembly through the slot I21a (the stifiening material being indicated at I29). After the stiffening material has been deposited in this way, the arm I25 is raised, the table I24 is rotated 180, a fresh registered collar assembly is laid in the gauge which is brought before the operator by this rotation and then the arm I25 is brought down again. This causes the creasing die I26 to make a crease in the collar assembly along and adjacent the margin thereof, since the collar assembly is in register with the creasing die. After this same operation (lowering the arm I25), the operator can deposit stiffening material. on the collar assembly under the template I21. After these operations have been performed, the arm I25 is again raised, the table is again rotated 180, the collar assembly which has been creased and which carries the stiffening material is removed from the machine, a fresh collar assembly is put in the gauge in front of the operator, and the arm I25 brought down again, whereupon the operator can deposit stiffening material on the collar assembly in the gauge in front of him while the collar assembly in the other gauge is being creased by the pressure imposed by the arm I25 forcing the creasing edge I32 ofithe creasing die I25 against the collar assembly resting on the table I24. Ordinarily the stiffening is applied to the registered collar assembly be-' fore the creasing operation so as to take advantage of the heat of the creasing die in accelerating the drying of the stiffening material if the stiffening material is applied in liquid form or if it is applied in the form of a fabric carrying an adhesive activated by a solvent. However, the sequence described may be reversed.

As described hereinabove, the aperture I21a in the applicator I21 is of such shape that the stilfening material is applied to the band portion of the registered collar assembly with one margin thereof as determined by said aperture immediately adjacent the foldline of the collar and due to the mechanical action imposed by the machine the crease-forming edge of the creasing die I26 forms a marginal crease in the collar assembly in predetermined spaced relationship to the foldline of the collar as determined by the location of the stifiening material. To obtain a good permanent crease the creasing die I26 should be heated and for this purpose it may have associated therewith a heating plate I33 containing resistor wires I34 which may be connected to a source of electric current (not shown) for the purpose of supplying heat.

It has been mentioned hereinabove that if the stiffening material that is applied to the registered collar assembly is in the form of an adhesive-bearing fabric, it may be desirable to subject the adhesive-bearing fabric to pressure and heat as applied to the collar assembly to cause it to adhere to the collar assembly before the assembly, is turned. This may be readily accomplished using the mechanism shown in Figs. 27 to 31 by means of the pressing foot I35. This pressing foot is in the form of a bar which moves vertically in a corresponding shaped slot in the plate I36 comprised in the creasing die I26. The shape of this bar, or at least the shape of its lower end, is substantially the same as the shape of the band of adhesive-bearing fabric that is deposited on the registered collar assembly and registers therewith in the position determined by the slot I210. in the template I21. In other words, the shape of the lower end of the presser foot I35 is substantially the same as the shape of the slot I21a. A spring or series of springs I31 presses downward on the bar I35, and downward movement of the bar I 35 is limited by the set screws I38 carried by the ears I39a of the flange I38, which is integral or fastened to the bar I 35, striking against the abutment I36a of the plate I36. The heating plate I33 will heat the bar I35 as well as the creasing die I26. When the arm I25 is brought down so as to bring the crease-forming edge I32 of the creasing die I26 against the registered collar assembly I28, contact will first be made between the bar I35 and the stiffening band I29 resting on the collar assembly. The adhesive-bearing fabric is thereby pressed against the collar assembly I28 and by means of this pressure and heat the band of adhesive-bearing fabric is fused to the uppermost ply of the collar assembly.

When the stiffening material that is employed utilizing the mechanism shown in Figs. 2'7 to 31 is in liquid or semi-liquid form, the pressing foot I35 may be omitted, or,'alternatively, the ultimate lowered position of the bar I35 relative to the crease-forming edge of the creasing die may be adjusted by resetting the set screws I38 so that when the arm I25 is lowered the lower end of the. bar I35 will remain out-of-contact with 

